Thursday 31 January 2008

Post

We've done it. This afternoon we posted 10 kilograms of stuff back to Austalia. Books, DVDs, pictures and most expensively Gi's acupuncture cards. The options were air mail or sea mail. Having lost three packages to the Italian postal sea mail system two years ago I insisted on air mail. The catch was it cost Euro 145. The contents of course were valued at much less than that...but it was all stuff that we cannot buy or replace in Australia.
When I first packed up the bright yellow box it weighed 17 kg which was 7 kg over the amount I was prepared to spend. So, last night after much soul searching and heart ache I eliminated 7 kg.
I can't tell you how much stuff we've been giving away. Clothes, books, household stuff. It's been like a constant garage sale out our place except it's all been going for free. It is strangely liberating, as it's the first time I've returned home without piles of stuff I just couldn't bear to part with.
No doubt we will both be panicing when it comes to finally packing our bags and squeezing what is left (in our heads it seems like a little, but in reality I'm sure it's not the case) into the limited space and weight restrictions imposed by the airlines.
As a treat I am hoping to go to the thermal spa on Friday. If I'm not organised by then...besides it's better that Gi packs up on his own. We are less prone to bicker about our different organisational skills if I am on the other side of the city sitting in a sauna.

Wednesday 30 January 2008

Looking forward

I've had a special request to blog about what I'm looking forward to in Australia. Here goes.

  1. Seeing my parents at the airport.
  2. Having long, chatty lunches with my friends and catching up on all the news.
  3. Hugging my two nieces who I haven't seen for two years.
  4. Being closer to my sisters again.
  5. Reconnecting with my city.
  6. Going to the beach with real pounding waves and clean, white sand knowing that Europeans are still enduring the winter.
  7. Getting good Thai, Indian, Chinese, Japanese, Mexican, Vietnamese and Indonesian food easily, just about anywhere in Brisbane.
  8. Going shopping for new clothes and shoes.
  9. Driving. I have driven once in the last two years.
  10. Getting my hair cut.
  11. Being spoilt and smothered by my mother for a few days.
  12. Talking quietly with my parents over a beer or glass of wine.
  13. Not having to walk around huge mountains of rubbish on the streets.
  14. Having to use the pedestrian crossings, and knowing that when a traffic light is red the cars will stop.
  15. Seeing how tall the lemon tree is at our house in Fitzgibbon.
  16. Moving on to a new chapter in life.
  17. Being able to go to the cinema and understand everything.
  18. Taking public transport that is air conditioned.
  19. Buying groceries at Coles, Chermside.
  20. Improving my bank balance once I start work again in March.
  21. Having my mother call me at 6pm every evening whenever we are both in Brisbane.
  22. Wearing heels to work again.
  23. Going to swear the oath of allegiance to Italy and receiving my Italian citizenship finally.
  24. Carressing the growing bellies of my pregnant girlfriends.
  25. Queuing up knowing that no one is going to try and jump the queue.
  26. Walking on the footpaths instead of the road.
  27. Driving up the the Maiala Rainforest Teahouse (where we got married) at Mount Glorious for Sunday brunch.
  28. Going to Fat Boys Cafe in Fortitude Valley for breakfast.
  29. Knowing I can deal with bureacracy.
  30. Seeing Gi's cousin Marco who will be leaving Australia in March after spending a year living and working around the country.
  31. Celebrating my cousin's 21st birthday party along with her parents (currently living in Kazakhastan)
  32. Seeing the results of my father's recent nose surgery.
  33. Meeting the new boyfriends in my girlfriends' lives.
  34. Did I already mention swimming?
  35. Barbecues, Dad style.
  36. The lack of cigarette smoke everywhere.
  37. Walking around without having to wear my 'don't mess with me' face.

That's 37, one for each year that I am. I figure the most important thing is to appreciate and savour each moment as it happens. Reflect back on the experiences and lessons learnt during our two years in Italy. Hope that we find out feet and look towards new challenges and goals.

Ironically I haven't been homesick at all, except for missing my friends and family, but not like other times living abroad. But I am certainly expecting some reverse culture shock. Coming home is just as scary and exciting as leaving somehow. It's all part of the ride.

Saturday 26 January 2008

Will & Won't No 2


First, what's the photo, I hear you ask?? It's the Mytro plant growing at the thermal spa I visit. It is the basis for our surname Mirto. The berries are used to make syrup, liquor and who knows what else, mostly in Sardinia. Below is a photo of the berries.

I will miss the markets and the local shops. I won't miss the crush of people shopping, or the push and shove of the housewives elbowing to buy fresh cheese and warm bread.

I'll miss the smiles and friendly greetings of the girl at the checkout, the barrista (guy making coffee at the bar), the pizza restaurant guys and the men at the wine shop. I won't miss the snarl and disdain one receives from service industry staff for the first few months of patronising their businesses.

I will occasionally miss the orchestra of blaring horns on the streets as drivers vent their frustrations. I won't miss the Neapolitan style of driving, the traffic jams, the road works or the pollution.

I will miss the debates that Neapolitans are constantly involved in.I won't miss their apparent collective inability to take action to address the issues they debate about. Nor will I miss what often sounds to me to be an argument rather than a discussion.

I will miss the moving theatre that are the public buses. I won't miss the unsavoury behaviour of certain men, especially when under the cover of a crowd (think rubbing crotches and roving hands). Nor will I miss being verbally attacked by crazy old women who identify me as a naive tourist and don't mind telling me what I should be doing differently to protect myself.

I will miss the incredible Neapolitan cuisine. I won't miss the fact that many Neapolitans are closed minded to anything other than local food.

I will miss the colder weather and the opportunity to wear coats, scarves, gloves and boots. I won't miss the resulting need to dress appropriately for the inclement weather, or the need to robe and disrobe as you come in and out.

I will miss the way Neapolitans completely embrace the summer sunshine and warmth. I won't miss the crowds of people at the beach, or the orange tans, or the excess of exposed flesh that really should be covered up. Nor will I miss the fact that summer brings much of life's regular activity to a stop.

I will miss walking around, discovering new corners, alleyways, doors, windows and decaying buildings. I won't miss walking around huge mountains of stinking rubbish, double parked cars and doggy messages in small, medium and extra large.

I will miss the energy of Naples. I won't miss the energy's apparent lack of purposeful direction.

I will miss the colours. The bright paint of newly renovated facades. The fading frontages of buildings long forgotten. The yellows reflecting the sun or Sorrento lemons, Pompeii reds, deep terracotta, musky pinks, forest greens, sky blues, creams, muted greys, apricots, and caramel. The dazzling mosaics of times past, disappearing frescoes and charmingly mismatched ceramic tiles. I won't miss the contstant presence of ugly scaffolding as restoration and renovation transforms a wreck into a fresh dream.

I will miss the style, flair and panache of clothing, hair and accessories.I won't miss the vanity, checking hair, clothes and faces in any reflecting surface, Vespa mirrors being a favourite. Nor will I miss the heavy make up of the misinformed, or the tight polyester clothing of obese teenagers and their mothers who should know better surely.

I will miss the mozarella. It just doesn't get any better anywhere else in the world. I won't miss not being able to buy regular tasty cheddar cheese.

I will miss teaching English, learning about my own language, better understanding English grammar and its functions. Pushing myself to be less shy and talk to students (= strangers). I won't miss the whiteboard pens that never work, or travelling to dodgy parts of town to give in company lessons to adults who behave like 10 year-olds.

I will miss living next door to the deli and the bakery. I'll miss living across the cobblestones from the butcher and having beauty products, household items and cleaning products within ten metres of the front door. Fruit and vegetables are just fifty metres away. The chemist, pizza restaurant, liquor store, mini supermarket, florist, kitchen supplies, cheese shop, basket lady, clothes, shoes, lingerie, toys are all within sight of our apartment. I won't miss having to borrow a car to drive 30 kilometres to visit a shopping centre.

Friday 25 January 2008

A week is a long time

What a week for Italy. The rubbish and sanitation crisis in Naples and Campania has continued to bubble away, making international headlines and drawing attention to Naples for all the wrong reasons. Anecdotally friends are telling me that tourist numbers are already suffering as a result. Then they unearthed a bomb in the historical centre of Naples, a left over from World War II. Now the Italian government has collapsed. Berlusconi is again circling like a hungry shark, pushing for spring elections.

I 'm afraid for Italy's future. I'm not alone. The BBC website states, 'yet today, Italy remains one of the worst governed countries in Europe'. No amount of good coffee, pasta, pizza, art, crumbling Roman ruins and sunshine will make up for the fact that public services are in a dire state, cronyism and corruption are rampant, unemployment (and underemployment) is out of control and the economy is suffering. Chaos rules across the peninsular.




Someone told me last night it was a great time to be in Italy. Everything is on a knife's edge. It could go either way. Other friends are predicting a civil war, or a revolution, where the people take to the streets. The idea that things are about to either improve or completely crash and burn though seem to me to be optimistic. It is my suspicion that Italy will continue to make an even bigger mess of things, while the European Community watches on, threatening to impose fines (like a fine is going to have any impact on the reality of what is an economic, political and social disaster), menacingly waving it's big blue and yellow stick around.

Thursday 24 January 2008

Carnevale

Carnevale is approaching. A major festival, most famous in Venice, it has children (and some adults) dressing up in costumes. Children's clothing stores and toy shops are full of costumes of every imaginable variety.
I photographed a shop window on Monday. See if you can spot Tom.

Glory Be!

Naples in all it's glory.
The rubbish crisis continues. The city is awash with colour, energy, and fading charm.

Yesterday a 90 kg bomb left over from World War II was unearthed in the historical centre during ongoing excavations for a new underground station. The city centre was evacuated. It's not the first time this has happend. In May 2005 a 250kg bomb from WWII was discovered at Formia near the railroad track between Naples and Rome, effectively closing the line. Five thousand residents were evacuated.

It makes me wonder what's coming next.









Central Naples

Some random photos from Monday when Tom and I walked around the historical centre.










Tuesday 22 January 2008

Mr Hawkins

Tom flew into Naples on Saturday night. He and I went up the hill to a great little trattoria and enjoyed dinner before hitting a night club down near the esplanade. The trattoria and food were great. The nightclub was full of posers too busy looking in the mirror or at each other to have time to dance. We left after half an hour and buying beers that cost Euro 8 each.
On Sunday I took Tom to the thermal spa where we hopped from the thermal pool to the sauna back to the thermal pool repeatedly. Relaxation in big handfuls. It was all good except for the decidedly middle aged Eastern European women who wear their knickers and lacy bras instead of swimmers. It's a little odd.
Today we strolled around some of the historical centre, off the beaten track before buying fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced ham off the bone, freshly baked break and ripe red tomatoes for lunch.
Tom is the last of our visitors. We have, over the last two years, had at least one lot of visitors almost every month. That's a lot of friends and family who have made the effort to come and visit. I thank you for that time and effort, and hope that all of you left Naples with a slightly different perception and a memory that will last a lifetime, be it good, bad or just different!
Tom gets a special thanks. He came to visit twice. Now I just have to convince him to come and visit Brisbane, with baby in tow. He and his partner Ruth are expecting an addition in March. I didn't congratulate Tom in person, so let me do it here publicly. Congratulations Tom and Ruth. Let the games begin.

Thursday 17 January 2008

Will and Won't

Following on from the previous post I was thinking this morning about all of the things I will miss, and those that I won't. Many of them are interconnected. Here are some initial ones.

I'll miss the quality of the coffee.

I won't miss the extra expense of sitting down to drink it.


I'll miss the pizza.

I won't miss the fact that pizza is basically the only good take away food option in Naples.


I'll miss the cobblestone streets in the UNESCO 'protected' (I use that word lightly) historical centre.

I won't miss not being able to wear high heels (I only wear flat shoes in Naples as it's too difficult to get around on foot in heels, and the cobblestones destroy your heels anyway, which explains the abundance of excellent, reasonably cheap cobblers and shoe repairers.)


I'll miss the castles, monuments and piazzas.

I won't miss the graffiti that seems to represent the disregard of the locals for the treasures they walk past every day.


I'll miss the colours of Naples against the backdrop of a brilliant blue sky.

I won't miss the depressing appearance of Naples when it's raining and the heavens are a blanket of grey.


I'll miss the strangely reassuring presence of the Vesuvio Volcano, as a contant feature of solidarity.

I won't miss feeling the constant threat it represents, likely to erupt at any time.

Breaking News

The news has broken and the ripples are starting to build into what will undoubtedly resemble a tidal wave by the time we realise what's happening.

We are leaving Naples and returning to Brisbane. After some six months of debating, crying and struggling with the decision it's done. Gi is naturally not as committed to the idea as I am, for he is leaving his hometown. This particular departure will be more painful than any in the past as he has unequivocably fallen in love with Naples. It is a case of fingers crossed that he will return to Australia and be happy, fulfilled and content there once again.
As they say, time will tell.

On the other hand, I am ready to go home. After two years of Naples I have come to accept that it is not a long term place for me to live. There are just too many sacrifices involved. The original idea of moving to Naples was two fold. I wanted to have a better understanding and appreciation of Gi's city. I wanted to have a deeper experience of the place that is very much a part of his personality and character. It was also change for a shake up, time to do something different. It doesn't get much more different moving from being a Finance Manager in Brisbane to teaching English and writing in Naples.
I certainly have a better understanding of Naples, and by extension Gigi. It hasn't been a waste of time or energy by any standards, although it's impossible to measure the changes that have taken place inside both of us as individuals, and as a couple. If anything, I guess I'm older and perhaps a little wiser.
I'm just not up to the challenge of dealing with Naples as a long term prospect. I can't see a future for myself, or for us, here. It is of course possible that with time and money we could live part of the year in Naples (or at least somewhere on the coast) and part of the year elsewhere. However, I can't see my future dreams becoming realities in Naples. I have neither the patience or combatative nature required.

Gigi is in a very different state of mind, but he can tell you about that.
We handed in our resignation to the school this week. We've given notice on our fabulous apartment. We've broken the news to our flatmate Marc.
I've started the onnerous process of sorting, throwing our, deciding, giving away and packing. Gi is in denial, and will no doubt cram it all into the last few days while I stand on the sidelines nagging and stressing. We've been there before.
With tickets booked and pretty much everything else organised it's just a matter of watching the calendar tick over and trying to keep things on an even keel as we approach 2nd February when we depart Naples for London. Then we have a couple of whirlwind days in London, the flight to Bangkok, three days of eating in Thailand, then the flight to Brisbane. In Brisbane we will be greeted by family and friends, and the heat and humidity of summer. I'm planning time at the beach before I return to work.
No doubt the reverse culture shock will be difficult. It usually is to some degree. I suspect Gigi will suffer the most this time. Just as I go around whinging about all the crazy stuff in Naples, he will go around whinging about the lack of good coffee, pizza and vibe on the streets of Brissie.
I call upon all of your in the SE Qld pocket to help me help him readjust to life away from the hum and throb of Italy's most intense city, Naples. We are both going to need your support.

Bellagio extras

I've just added additional to the post titled 'Bellagio Day Trip'. Go back and have a look at the colours of the village and lake as the winter sun set in the mid afternoon.

Wednesday 16 January 2008

Game Shows

The game shows on Italian television fascinate me. Many of them are copies of programmes that we are familiar with regardless of where we call home – Australia, Britain, Germany, Canada etc. However, each country adds its unique touches to the basic format. These are usually culturally based, they may be due to language idiosyncrasies, or restrictions imposed (or freedoms permitted) by the dedicated time slot. Some are simply because of the presenter’s personality.

Italian game shows are special. They seem to encompass both the best and the worst of this multi-faceted country.

Let’s look at the Italian equivalent of ‘Deal or No Deal’. In Australia, if I remember correctly, the amounts of money is hidden in briefcases (side note: in Italian, briefcases are referred to as ’24 hours’ because you can carry just what you need for the next twenty-four hours inside it). In Italy the ‘money’ is hidden in boxes that look more like they belong in a decoupage shop, with an official looking string (that might once have bound postal packages) held down with a seal of red wax. Each box represents a different region in Italy. In Italy, there is an enormous couch just behind the contestant where their family sits watching. It’s not uncommon for a spouse or parents to join the contestant to offer advice, or share in the joy of good selections with hugs, kisses and dancing.

I don’t remember being struck by the music on ‘Deal or No Deal’ in Australia, but in Italy it plays a big part in building up the atmosphere and commiserating or celebrating as the game plays out. The presenter often sneaks a peak here in Italy, and on occasions flashes the contents of the box to a special camera to the side that shows the audience at home what’s coming.

Above all else though, there are two things I enjoy most about ‘Deal or No Deal’ in Italy. When the show starts each night, at about 8:30 pm (I say about, as it seems to me that programming times are not followed as strictly as elsewhere), the presenter comes on fully dressed in a suit. The contestants are usually attractive, and primped to their fullest. Seated on a cheap three-legged stool, the contestant leans onto the counter, surrounded by good luck symbols. However, the presenter is the one who catches my attention. As the show progresses and each round unfolds, becoming increasingly more exciting (read stressful), the presenter slowly starts to strip. Off comes his jacket. He works his thumb around the collar of his shirt to ease his discomfort. The tie is removed, and the top two buttons are released, momentarily relieving the anxiety. He bounces around the set, a seemingly ceaseless barrel of nervous energy. In contrast, at times, he stands completely still, waiting to reveal the contents of the next box; everything is paused for what feels like minutes. With the jacket and tie off, the only descent option remaining is for him to roll up his sleeves. This done, he then resumes striding around, arms waving emphatically with eyebrows raised or his poker face slips into place accompanied by deep lung-filling sighs.

The strip tease is routine, and yet it somehow continues to surprise me. The other thing that confounds me is that Italians seem very keen to risk, and risk and risk, very often playing the game right to the final box. Australians are much more risk averse, regularly settling for a more conservative amount in lieu of losing it all. Of course the Italian style of playing lends itself to two possible outcomes. They either win, and win well, all of those good luck symbols coming into play along with the sage advice of parents, siblings and spouses, or they bomb out abysmally, walking away with mere Euros instead of thousands. It’s the second option that is the most interesting. It’s easy to watch someone win and look as proud as punch, as though it was a game of skill other than sheer luck, but watching someone keep on going, way past what was obviously their used by date and a very reasonable offer about three rounds ago, is both painful and somehow reassuring. These losers, the smiles wiped from their faces as the last box is opened, reinforce my misguided, very personal, opinion that Italians are indeed bad money managers, that they get too easily carried away with the moment instead of considering the future consequences of their actions, and that at heart they are somewhat reckless and crazy.

Other game shows include ‘Who Wants to be a Millionaire’ and two variations of the same. These aren’t as exciting though. The contestants seem to be reasonably intelligent, testing their personal knowledge as opposed to randomly picking box numbers. Although, in accordance with the cultural touches, their does seem to be a lot more talking and vocal reasoning that goes on before each answer is locked in.

Another game show I enjoy watching is one I haven’t seen elsewhere, although I’m sure it must be a format stolen from Britain, USA or Germany. The Italian name translates to ‘Usual Unknowns’. There are about ten participants on the stage, each one carries an identity card with a secret amount inside. One at a time, they are called forward into the spotlight and the contestant (once again polished and most often attractive) has to match them from a list of occupations provided. How can you tell what job a person does from the way they look? Excellent question and the point of the game (at least for me) is that in fact you can’t. There’s a very good expression in English that sums it up; something about judging a book by its cover.

Yet they try. Each one they guess right they score the money, and the winnings accumulate. However, as soon as the contestant gets a match wrong, they go bankrupt. So, unless you guess the very last one, you are guaranteed of walking away with…nothing. Of course, the more you guess correctly, the easier it becomes as you eliminate jobs and reduces the pool of participants accordingly. Every one that you get wrong makes it more difficult as that job remains on the board until the end of the game.

The contestant is allowed to inspect the hands of each participant, and the running commentary usually goes something like this ‘well cared for hands, manicured nails, the lady is well dressed, yes, she’s a ‘bella signora’ (a beautiful, usually older, woman). Or ‘some calluses or cuts, probably the hands of someone who does manual work’ along with comments about their clothes, physique, barbering or hair. Each contestant also has the opportunity to ask two participants for three clues. The clues can be helpful, but on the surface seem ambiguous and confusing. Clues might be something like ‘I’ve never been out of Italy’, ‘I’m good friends with my clients’, ‘I have a dog’, ‘I live with my parents’, ‘I enjoy helping people’.

Sometimes the match seems so obvious that you think it must be a trick. Like when a big bellied man in a red shirt, with a flowing white beard steps up, and one of the jobs is ‘Santa Claus’. Would you choose the obvious, or think his occupation must be something a bit more obscure? He was of course, Santa Claus. Then there is the very beautiful younger woman, perfectly groomed, and one of the options is ‘Miss Italia 2004’. She is, too obviously, Miss Italia 2004, and the audience applauds wildly. They applaud their own canniness at having chosen correctly. More tellingly, they applaud for the sheer pleasure of being in the presence of such a fine specimen of what it is to be Italian.

Of course, there are tricks involved. The helicopter pilot turns out to be the unassuming young woman dressed in jeans and a shirt. She looks more like a cleaner or a shop assistant. Similarly, the emergency vehicle driver is a woman, a matronly figure who should surely be home tending to her children. The hair stylist is an unlikely looking young man, but when he speaks (other than to say his name and age at the beginning) it becomes apparent that he’s gay, or at the very least extremely effeminate. The doctor is not the serious faced man in the suit, but the middle-aged woman with shoulder length hair, spectacles and a sequinned top. The Olympic gold medal winner is the aging gentleman, elegantly suited and bursting with pride when he is finally revealed.

Most of the surprises revolve around the lingering idea that women do certain jobs, and men do different jobs. It’s as if the feminist movement failed to make the same impact on Italian society, especially as you travel further south. Likewise, there aren’t many men stepping into roles that have traditionally been held by women (although the unemployment statistics undoubtedly contribute somewhat to that ‘lack’ of development). It’s fascinating to watch, as female contestants continue to follow stereotypes, labelling the women as call centre operators, beauty therapists and the person with ‘two sets of twins’, mistakenly reserving occupations like pharmacist, saxophonist and pizza maker for the men.

The final game show is one called ‘Ciao Darwin’ featured on one of slimey Silvio Berlusconi’s television channels. It is the epitome of gratuitous tits and arse programming. In fact, every time I watch some of it (I never manage to endure a complete show) I feel offended, disappointed and frustrated that this rubbish is being fed to the Italian viewing public. Two different teams compete for points through a series of games, including a very lewd fashion parade. Each week the two teams represent different groups of society eg heterosexuals and gays, conservative women and ‘liberated’ women, southern and northern women, available (single) women and ‘taken’ (married, engaged or involved) women. Stereotypes are enforced to the point of being rammed down your throat.

The most offensive segment is the fashion parade, where both teams have women dressed in the following styles ‘disco’, ‘day wear’, ‘lingerie’, ‘nightwear’ etc. There is a plethora of skin, lacy bras, sheer knickers, barely there thongs (not the feet kind), bulging breasts and well-rounded buttocks. They strut up and down the length of the catwalk, watched by an ogling audience of lascivious men, some of whom bring binoculars and mini telescopes to help them get better close up views. It’s revolting to say the least. It’s only made worse by the fact that a certain husband and flatmate enjoy the show, in particular the fashion parade, and I don’t doubt that at times they too would like to have a pair of binoculars handy.

The rest of the show is generally distasteful, but the sexy suggestive lesbian dance is another highlight. Two women, clad in black lace lingerie and stiletto heels, with fabulous hair and apparently perfect bodies, dance together in, around and over two chairs. Their hands sliding up and down each other’s legs, derrieres swinging around towards the audience as they slowly bend over, hips undulating, mouths pouted. The audience responds heartily. It would be okay if it was a soft porn video or perhaps after midnight, but at 9.30pm it just doesn’t seem to be right. It’s particularly worrying when you consider that children in Italy don’t really go to bed much before 11pm at night, even on a school night.

Suffice to say that of all the crap programming on Italian television, in particular Berlusconi’s channels, ‘Ciao Darwin’ wins first prize for offense factor and for sexually objectifying women. It’s interesting to note though that a recent survey of high school girls revealed that the most sought after job would be as a showgirl on television. It seems that the evil cycle perpetuated by the lack of independent, intelligent female role models on television in this country is already starting to feed itself. Feminism takes another hit.

Game shows, not just for fun.

The natural follow up would be some thoughts about reality TV programmes in Italy. Think ‘Big Brother’, ‘I’m a Celebrity on an Island’ (or whatever that one’s called in English) and ‘Dancing with the Stars’. However, I’ve sunk into a state of disillusionment and can’t possibly write anymore.

Now, if I could just find a game show to watch to help cheer me up!

Tuesday 15 January 2008

Bellagio day trip

While Gi and I were Christmas'ing ('to Christmas' is now a verb according to me) at Argegno on Lake Como with Kim, Noel and the boys we took a ferry ride across the lake to Bellagio. Bellagio is a lovely little town hugging the lake. It is now internationally famous as the home of George Clooney. Unfortunately George wasn't available to join us for lunch the day we visited. With much of the local village closed for the Christmas break we wandered up into the heart of the village and eventually found a cafe for lunch. Joshua chose a hamburger and Noel chose a hotdog, both having consumed their fill of pasta and pizza over the preceding week. Lachlan had the right idea and avoided the menu in its entirety by sleeping in his stroller through lunch.






Thursday 10 January 2008

View

Yesterday was unseasonally warm. It was a perfect day for photos, blue open skies, whispy clouds, good light.

Today is completely different.

As I look at the window from the school staff room all I can see is a bank of rolling clouds. Grey clouds, actually more of a dirty white colour, like a white shirt that got mixed in with the dark colours in the washing machine and has never recovered its former shining glory.

It's colder today, but not so cold that you need a scarf and hat.

What's strange is that there is a golden glow on the northern horizon. I wonder what is causing it. Perhaps it's from the mountains of rubbish that local residents have set on fire in order to clear their neighbourhoods of trash. I hope not. I try not to think about the toxins that have recently been released into the already ridiculously polluted atmosphere that swims above our heads in Naples thanks to the burning of refuse.

I am pleased to report that the rubbish was collected in our street last night. I am saddened that this rubbish crisis will continue to negatively affect the greater majority of Neapoitans, particularly those in lower socio-economic areas. The citizens and the authorities continue to disagree about how to attack the problem, where to dispose of the tonnes of rubbish produced on a daily basis by the million odd people crammed into this city, and how to overcome the control that the local Camorra have over the situation.

I talk to some of my students about it, and they are understandably furious, disappointed, overwhelmed and completely at a loss as to what should be done.

Imagine if it was happening in your backyard...or rather on the footpath in front of your street!

Rubbish

Naples is buried under 5000 tons of waste.
The problem of gargage collection, disposal and management has been an 'emergency' in this city for the past 15 years. It's not unusual to drive out of the city centre into the suburbs and see mounds of rotting rubbish piled along the streets, highways and alleyways. The suburb where Gigi's mother lives, Pianura, is particularly notorious.
However, the problem is now creeping into the city centre. I walked down the main shopping street yesterday with visitors Hannah and Amy, and was surprised to see that mountains of rubbish there as well.
People are protesting, setting buses on fire, the army has been called in to restore calm, but still the rubbish sits there, both a health and sanity issue, while the local mafia wait in the wings to reap the financial benefits of a problem they have largely created.
It really does make one wonder, what are the solutions, and are Neapolitans ever going to overcome the enormous pile of issues that confront them.
Here is a link from an article on the web in the UK Telegraph.
What's next for this city that at times brings such delight and then turns around and breaks your heart?

Jingle bells

I know it's very late but Happy New Year. Things have been a little out of control lately.

We were both busy working in the lead up to Christmas. Then we flew up to Milan and took a bus to Como where my darling sister Kim met us. She and her husband Noel and sons Joshua and Lachlan were in Europe for a holiday and we managed to organise to spend Christmas together in a fabulous apartment in Argegno village on Lake Como.

Christmas was great, although the bit where we had to chop the head and feet off the chicken before roasting it wasn't a highlight. In true Australian style the boys woke us early on the 25th and we sat around the tree (purchased for Euro 19.99 and decorated with cheap, simple, crap decorations I brought up from Naples...what do a 2 and a 4 year old know or care anyway!) opening presents while it was still dark outside, in our pyjamas. Truly the best way to kick off Christmas day.


Then while the boys played with their gifts we prepared lunch. We spent the day inside, looking out at the lake from the verandah, enjoying the central heating and marvelling at the way the light seemed to change every half hour. Noel and I were talking about lighting with regards to taking photos the whole time.
Over the next couple of days we took a scary cable car ride (just ask Kim) up to the top of the mountain and had lunch, drove into Como on a desperate search for an almost non existent internet cafe, took a boat cruise across the lake to Bellagio (but sadly missed out date with local resident George Clooney), ate, slept and played. Oh, we also went for a drive to Foxtown, a huge shopping centre which is supposed to be outlet shopping (!!) just across the border in Switzerland. The first attempt, we didn't have our passports and almost get ourselves arrested by the Italian border police. The second attempt we were better prepared but of course by then they hardly even bothered to check if there was anyone driving the car.


After five nights we trooped into Milan. Gigi and I met up with Pernille, Danish friend, and we had an early dinner with Kim, Noel and the kids. They left for skiing in Switzerland the following day. Unfortunately, the three of us had planned to spend three nights in Milan, including New Years Eve. This was a mistake. Milan is world famous, but it's not a city for tourists or visiting.
New Years Eve was a huge anti climax and in fact it was so crazy in the main square with people (mostly men from Algeria, Morocco and Egypt) throwing fireworks around (and directly at Penny and I who were surreptiously wearing bright red winter coats) that we retreated to our hotel room and saw midnight in there. Not what we had planned or anticipated.
Neapolitans rarely say anything very positive about the north of Italy, and Milan in particular generally brings a sneer and a look of disdain to their faces. I had always assumed this a a bit of northern/southern competition (for want of a better word), and figured Milan would have its charms like any other place. It doesn't. Apart from the main cathedral (and if you've seen the Notre Dame in Paris it's very similar), and the Galleria (which is certainly not any better than the Galleria Umberto in central Naples) and the castel there is only the shopping, business and lots of horrible industry and sad apartment buildings. The main, fancy shopping street MonteNapoleone is certainly interesting, with all the big designers having their flag stores located there (think Gucci, Prada, YSL, Bvlgari...blah, blah, blah) but if you aren't into labels, expensive shopping and consumerism it's really just a half hour stroll and your done.


I don't think I've said this about anywhere else I've travelled, but I will not be returning to Milan unless it's in transit on my way to visit the northern lakes sometime in the spring or summer. I would strongly suggest that your time, money and effort is much better spent visiting almost anywhere else in Italy. And unless you are a workaholic or seriously into making money, I can't see the attraction. Milan doesn't really seem to have a lifestyle.

So, that's a quick update on our festive season jaunt. I hope you enjoy the sprinkling of photos. It is my intention to put more up soon, and add them to my facebook account as well.
Auguri, buon anno 2008!