Helicopters

I can’t remember if I’ve written about the helicopters that spent hours hovering over our suburban quarter sometime last month. The first occasion was a day when Gi and I were both at home. We often hear aeroplanes in the distance, as the airport is virtually in the middle of the city, about ten minutes through the backstreets and the traffic from our place. Initially I assumed it was routine aircraft noise, but after repeated fly bys (not the type associated with a blue plastic reward card that you flash at the supermarket) I went outside to have a look.

The helicopter repeatedly circled the area. You could hear it cruising up and down the neighbouring alleyways and then turning back on its own path to fly over the sections in between the alleys: mostly apartment buildings crammed with thousands of residents; be they long standing Neapolitans or the more recent variety with Polish, Ukraine, Sri Lankan & Indian (or Australian) roots. I stood in the courtyard for a long time listening to the ongoing drone of the whirling blades as it swept over the area, patrolling along the market street, then over the piazza, before swinging back to investigate the innards, the heart, the core of the zone. The occasional sight of the helicopter flying directly above our courtyard, the underbelly of the beast exposed, made me feel nervous and excited.

It was a police helicopter. TheyThe mayor of Naples, Rosa Rosso Jervolino said: "We need, above all, a major mobilisation like we had during the terrorism times in the 1970s.
"We have to fight criminals, and we need cultural and social policies of prevention. I ask the government to not forget Naples," she told the BBC.
were looking for something, or rather someone. After hours of being sensitively aware of its ominous presence, scooping back and forth across the open blue sky, it disappeared; as though I’d imagined it all.

About a week later I was coming home, exiting from the bowels of the underground station, to find that the piazza was enjoying a heavy police presence. A quick stroll along the market street only heightened my nerves, and interest, as police were stationed at every major corner and intersection. Standing in pairs, one officer was holding a semi automatic weapon (how do I know what sort of gun it was? too many movies I guess) while the other was looking around and randomly (or so it appeared to me) flagging down vehicles and passers by for questioning and inspection.

The whole quarter was experiencing a similar level of police scrutiny. And the helicopter was back. Postponing my plans to wander around and buy some groceries I headed home, acutely aware that there were less people on the street than normal for a regular week day afternoon with such lovely weather. Again I found myself mesmerised by the drone of the chopper, the rare glimpse of it through the opening in our apartment building leaving me increasingly intrigued.

Someone the following day described it as a blitz. It’s funny how I always associate the word ‘blitz’ with the bombing raids that took place in London during World War II. Holed up in our ‘urban cave’ amongst the honeycomb of similar small living spaces it was very possible to imagine how easy it would be for an unsavoury someone to hide away, and stay hidden. Although Neapolitans aren’t good at being quiet, or hiding, or staying out of the public domain for long periods so I’m hoping that the police, and their flying friends, had some luck.

Although the recent developments seem to indicate that there is a lot going on just underneath the surface of everyday life in this ancient city.

An extract from the BBC’s website report:
Italian police have arrested 30 people in Naples as part of a crackdown on the Mafia following a surge in violence.
The raid targeted the bosses and associates of two clans thought to be involved in extortion and international drug trafficking.
The Naples Mafia, known as the Camorra, has turned on itself recently.
After nine murders in the past two weeks some have called for the army to be sent to the city. The ninth died on Wednesday, ending several days of calm.
The victim was known to be a leading member of a local clan.
Police said the gunmen had fired on their victim from the back of a stolen ambulance. The vehicle was later torched in a street close to the murder scene.
It was part of an ongoing war between about groups believed to make up the Camorra.
Reinforcements
Critics blame the recent spate of violence on the release of about 2,500 men from over-crowded prisons in the region.
Some of the murders have involved people who have only recently been freed.
The killing has brought pressure on the Camorra.
The interior minister set out an emergency plan for the city on Friday which will include an extra 1,000 policemen.
On Wednesday several hundred policemen were involved in an operation in which 30 people were arrested in raids across the city.
Those arrested are accused of Camorra association, robbery, extortion and drug trafficking.

And this a week earlier:
Italian PM Romani Prodi has said he is considering sending troops to Naples to help tackle a crime wave that has left seven people dead in five days.
Mr Prodi said the decision would depend on "the long-term benefits" of sending in the military.
Seven suspected members of the local mafia, the Camorra, have been arrested, following a spate of murders, daylight armed robberies and muggings.

Some of these murders have been happening in the area where we live. I’ve received emails from friends asking if it’s safe for us to stay, and if we’ve considered leaving. The reality is that while we take a bit more care when out and about after dark none of this directly impacts on our daily life. I’m not even aware that the locals are talking about it a great deal, although the Camorra is something of a taboo subject at times. You never know who you are talking to, and who is connected to whom. I don’t feel scared, or worried, but I am very interested in the developments as it’s a very real, very visible demonstration of the existence and activities of the local ‘Family’.

I watch with interest to see what happens following the mayor of Naples, Rosa Rosso Jervolino, request, “I ask the government to not forget Naples We need, above all, a major mobilisation like we had during the terrorism times in the 1970s. We have to fight criminals, and we need cultural and social policies of prevention.”

Yes, the city’s mayor is a woman. I hope to meet her one day!